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The Tradition of Islamic Scholarship in Timbuktu: a photographic documentationby Alexandra Huddleston, 2006-2007In Timbuktu, a boy becomes a man when he is officially costumed in his first turban by the Sheikh of his mosque and blessed by the multitude of male friends and family who have gathered for this important ceremony. Once he has received his first turban, he can marry whom he wishes without asking the permission of his parents. He can participate as a man, among equals, at all civic and religious functions. Accordingly, many men receive their first official turban the day after the religious rites celebrating their first marriage -- which has been duly arranged by the parents -- which is also the day before their first wedding night.
In early April, I photographed a ceremony in which four men were together invested with their first turban. I began photographing from the outskirts of the event, since those without turbans (which ends up including all women) are not normally allowed in the main ceremonial area. But rules often seem to bend for photographers, and soon I was invited to join the Malian photographers and videographers – all un-turbaned -- snapping away to inscribe the memory of this event for posterity. What was the key that helped me break the turban-gender barrier? It certainly helped that I was wearing a long-sleeved Malian styled blouse and that I had a scarf to cover my head. It also helped that many in the crowd recognized me from around town and knew I was connected with some of the city’s more trusted and eminent citizens. But, the welcome really opened when the guests were assured that I would be bringing back copies of the photos. I’m certainly not the first to practice in this form of cross-cultural exchange. As Fulbrighters we are called Cultural Ambassadors. If I extend this analogy and say that I’m involved in a sort of diplomacy, what terminology would best describe it? It’s certainly not the gunboat diplomacy that opened much of East Asia to American trade and influence in the 19th century… So, I’ve coined a new term. As a Fulbright, Cultural Ambassador, I engage in photographic diplomacy. It’s the camera that opens the doors and provides the excuse to watch and talk and learn and engage with a foreign culture. Then, the photographs made will in turn bring that understanding back to my country and, hopefully, increase the perspective, patience and interest of Americans towards those who live very, very different lives from their own. |
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